BEFORE YOU GET ON THE FIELD
1.Check your goggles and make sure the strap is secure on the
frames and check to ensure the lenses are properly in place. Make
sure they're clean.
2.Make sure you have your squeegee.
3.Check to see if your tubes or bulk loaders are topped up.
AFTER YOU GET TO THE FLAGSTATION/STARTING POINT
1.Remember to take your barrel plug out.
2.Make sure your paintmarker is loaded, the CO2 is on and it's cocked and ready to fire.
COVER AND CONCEALMENT, THE SAME THINGS?
No, they are not the same thing. Think of it this way.
- Cover: it will stop a paintball, but will not hide you. A pane of
lexan (goggle lense material), for instance.
- Concealment: it will allow you to hide, but may not stop a
paintball. A wall of paper is a good example.
Most times, you'll get both. Don't rely on it, one hundred
percent of the time. Just remember, the bush may hide you, but it
might not stop a paintball.
Also with cover, when you are using vertical cover, like a tree
trunk, you should stand at least an arms length away. This way the
tree will cover you better from your opponent's point of view, and it
does not obscure your vision as much.
MOVEMENT
THE BEST WAY TO MOVE (WHEN YOU'RE NOT BEING SHOT AT)
Unless the other team knows where you are (indicated by the
fact that they're shooting at you) take your time. The faster you
move, the more noise you're going to make. If you have the time,
take it. You can have speed, or silence, but not both. You'll know
when to use one or the other.
If you are moving on someone try to keep obstacles between
your eyes and his, even a slender tree may hide you from their vision.
Also, while you are moving, you should keep your paintmarker
"at the ready" position.
When in a game, but not in the action, you must have your
paintmarker ready at all times, but still carry it in a comfortable
position.
For a rifle, or any paintmarker with a stock, the butt us clamped
against your side (in the space between your rib cage and your
waist) by your right arm (on the opposite side if you shoot left
handed). The barrel is pointed up and held so the muzzle (end of the
barrel) is slightly below eye level, with your left hand on the pump or
forestock. The muzzle should follow your eyes as you scan the
terrain. When held this way, your paintmarker is always pointed in
front of you should you acquire a target.
When holding the paintmarker in this fashion you can do one of
two things: a very quick hip shot or a quick and aimed shot from the
shoulder.
For a hip shot, bring the muzzle down. The index finger of the
hand on the pump/fore end should be pointing down the barrel. Your
eye and index finger align almost perfectly to where you are pointing.
With your index finger pointing along the line of the barrel, it will help
you "aim" that much better.
For shooting from the shoulder, when the target is at a greater
range and there is more time to aim (relatively speaking) the
paintmarker should be brought to the shoulder. This is done very
simply, although the explanation seems complicated, the actual
doing is better than the telling. The paintmarker is pushed out,
keeping the muzzle on the target. The stock is swung up to meet the
shoulder and once it is in line with the shoulder, is brought in and
held snugly (not tightly). The head is brought down to use the
sights. Seeing how you kept the muzzle of the paintmarker more or
less on the target, you should only need a minuscule adjustment to
properly sight in on your intended target.
If you are toting a pistol, the principle is the same, but the
technique differs slightly. For pistoleros, the pistol is held in your
normal shooting hand either in a two handed grip on the pistol or
with the non-shooting hand on the pump/fore end. The muzzle is
still held at eye level and tracks with your eyes when you scan. A
very important thing to remember is to keep your elbows down at
your sides. If you don't the muscles will be supporting the weight of
your arms and the pistol and will tire quickly. When you acquire a
target the pistol is pushed out towards it, keeping the muzzle on the
target.
With practice these methods are very easy to master. Most
master the basic concept with the first time they try it. Incidentally,
these methods were developed from shooting skeet and trap with a
shotgun.
THE BEST WAY TO MOVE (WHEN YOU ARE BEING SHOT AT)
The idea is to move as fast as possible, in short bursts, to
prevent your opponent from drawing a bead on you. As a rule of
thumb, it takes about three seconds for a person to recognize,
acquire, sight in and shoot at a target that pops up unexpectantly.
You don't want to give them three seconds. You also don't want to
"telegraph" your movement. When you're ready to go, then GO! Don't
try a "head fake", or any fancy stuff like that. You're robbing yourself
of your three second advantage.
BASIC TEAM TACTICS
Okay, these are really simple. I mean, my dog understands
them. They are effective BECAUSE they are simplistic.
BASIC OFFENSIVE TACTICS
1.First, you should designate a small group of players to act as a
flanking party. These players will automatically break off and flank
the opposition when you encounter them. If you designate specific
players to do this before the game, you don't have worry about
confusion on who is going to go during the game. I remember being
up front and saying "A couple of you flank around." When I turned
around, they were ALL gone flanking! The Flanking Party should stay
to the back, so they don't get hit during initial contact.
2.It's also wise to stay in one group. If you break up into smaller
groups, the opposition will eliminate them quickly, if they were smart
enough to stay in a group.
3.The best way to win is to avoid the opposition altogether. It's
fun to shoot your friends, but if you want to win, you'll want as many
people as you can get into the flag station.
4.When you get to the flag station, send your flanking party
around to the other side to divert attention. Once the defenders start
moving and advancing on the flankers, you rush in and shoot a few
butts. This only works if the defenders don't see the main body.
BASIC DEFENSIVE TACTICS
Defenders are only there to slow down the opposition. By
definition, they are DEFENDING, not stopping. The longer you can
slow down the opposition, the better it will be for your attackers.
You should only have a few defenders, and those who will not
break and run at the first sign of trouble. Incidentally, the most
tenacious defenders I've ever gone up against have been women. I
don't know why, but they're more determined than their male team
mates. (That doesn't mean you should leave the ladies on defence all
day, guys.)
WHAT TO DO WHEN YOU HAVE THE OPPOSITION'S FLAG
Everyone makes the same mistake. You grab the flag and you
take off, leaving the opponent's flag station empty. What happens if
they have YOUR flag and they're halfway back. They're going to hang
the flag while you're still huffin' and puffin' down the trail. Leave a
few players back to give the opposition a little surprise, and give you
a little more time to get to your flag station.
When you get to your flag station, make sure it's clear; the bad
guys may have read this too.
Don't let the guy who grabs the flag run off half-cocked. Make
sure there are a few players in front of him and a few players behind.
Most times the opposition doesn't realize you have their flag until you
pass them. Now they're behind you, which is why you have a few
players taking up the rear.
No matter what:
NEVER LEAVE THE OPPOSITION'S FLAG STATION UNATTENDED!
WHAT TO DO IF THE OPPOSITION HAS YOUR FLAG
Where are they going to go with your flag? That's right, THEIR
flag station. Don't try to second guess which route they're going to
take back. Beat feet to their flag station and wait for them there.
They usually come running in, thinking (and acting) like they already
won. Then, you let them have it!
All of the articles in the "virtual book" Durty Dan's Paintball Information Services are free to use for webpages, school projects, reference and to promote paintball to players and the non-playing public. Credit for the source of the information should be included in the bibliography or references page.
© Durty Dan Enterprises 2000. All rights reserved. All works contained herein are under copyright of the author Durty Dan. While the Terms of Use are broad they do not include the right to republish this work in any publication (hardcopy or electronic) for the purposes of personal financial gain.
