KYORI -- RANGES

• Tankyori (short distance). This is also known as Ideal Range.

• Chuukei (middle distance). This is also known as Effective Range.

• Senri (long distance). This is also known as Maximum Range.

Tankyori (short distance)

This is the range where your chances of hitting your opponent and the ball having enough impact energy to break on that opponent are the best. The Tankyori Range in paintball is 75 feet and closer. But not too close, we don't want to hurt anybody.

Chuukei (middle distance)

This is the range where you can hit your opponent, but the velocity has dropped to the point where you are going to have to hit the opponent's marker, loader, mask or other hard surface to get a break. This is also the range where, if the opponent can see the shot coming at him, he can dodge the ball. The Chuukei Range in paintball is from 75 feet out to 100 feet.

Senri (long distance)

This is the range where not only does your opponent have to be looking the other way, AND you have to hit a hard spot, but you ALSO have to elevate the marker considerably to get the balls there. The Senri Range is from 100 to 125 feet.

MATO -- TARGETS

1. Hado-mato (hard targets)

2. Sofu-mato (soft targets)

A hado-mato is best described as a surface which will readily allow a paintball to break upon impact. A sofu-mato is a surface or area where you are most likely to get a bounce.

In the infantry we were trained to shoot "centre-of-mass", which means that the larger the target, the less the likelihood of missing. As Mel Gibson's character said in the movie The Patriot, "Aim small, miss small." However, in paintball we do not the power of the firearm at our disposal (thankfully). In paintball we must strive to be able to hit the smallest target at the greatest amount of range with consistency.

Here are the Sofu-mato:

• Do -- chest

• Kata -- Shoulder

Here are the Hado-mato:

• Hatama -- head

• Gammen -- (literally "between the eyes") goggle lens

• Sandan -- gun

• Dansou -- hopper/loader/feeder

• Te -- hand

• Tekubi -- wrist

• Hiji -- elbow

• Ashi -- foot or leg

As you can see, the hado-mato outnumber the sofu-mato, but the hado-mato are much smaller. Also many hado-mato are "lined up", or grouped together when a player is aiming or shooting. In this case the hatama, gammen, sandan, dansou, te, tekubi and the hiji are in one group. This makes each of them easier to hit, as if you miss one, the ball will hit another. However, when all these hado-mato are grouped together, that means your opponent is either shooting at you or a teammate.

Knowledge of these targets, or venerable areas, will also help you be aware of what targets you are presenting to an opponent. Exposure is a necessary evil, if you intend to shoot at an opponent, so the less you expose, the better. Due to the fact that you are not simply hosing, but AIMING, you can reduce the size of your loader and your power supply accordingly.

KAMAE -- STANCES

There are three kamae (which are broken down into several positions themselves) they are listed in order of tactical preference:

1. Jodan no kamae -- "high stance"; standing. This is the most advantageous position for movement, as it allows you to change the position of your body quickly (movement in place) and you can move to another location without having to get up. It is, however the least advantageous for exposure, as much of your body will not be covered unless you're behind something large like a wall or hut.

2. Chudan no kamae -- "middle stance"; kneeling/squatting. This is the second most advantageous for moving, as you are on your feet. This is also the middle ground for exposure, as well.

3. Gedan no kamae -- "low stance"; lying down. This is the least advantageous for movement. Lying down limits you opportunities to shift position in place or to move to another position. This can be the most advantageous for cover, especially if the cover is small.

• Hanmi -- half-forward stance. This is when you are standing fully erect, neither bending your knees nor back.

• Iai goshi -- standing, hips lowered. This is when you are still on both feet, but your back is bent and your knees are bent, lowering your hips.

• Sonkyo -- squatting/crouching. You are still on your feet, but you are in the lowest position possible without kneeling.

Chudan no kamae:

• Tate hiza -- kneeling on one knee. Pretty straight forward.

• Seiza -- kneeling on both knees. Just as straight forward.

When in the tate hiza, I like to have the leg I'm not kneeling on out straight. This allows better range of movement in position and it allows me to get to my feet quicker to move to another piece of cover.

Gedan no kamae:

• Ushiro -- lying on your back. Many players will lie on their backs and sit up to shoot.

• Makkou -- lying on your front. This is also called the "prone" position.

• Hidarigawa -- lying on your left. Simple.

• Ontou -- lying on your right. Simple.

The problem with the gedan no kame is the fact that if you have to get up to move to another piece of cover, the act of having to get up tells your opponent you are about to move. On the other hand, this is the most stable shooting platform.

Gedan no kame should only be adopted on two occasions:

1. When there is very little available cover; or

2. For shooting from a hidden position (sniping).

The important thing to remember is that the lower your stance, the greater likelihood of your paintball hitting another object (brush, twigs, etc) on its way to the intended target.

To review

STANCE	ADVANTAGE	DISADVANTAGE
Jodan no kamae	Movement in place Movement from cover to cover	Great exposure Least stable shooting stance
Chudan no kamae	Movement in place Movement from cover to cover Less exposure	Average good shooting stance
Gedan no kamae	Least exposure Best shooting position (if line to target is clear)	Difficult for movement in place Extrememely difficult in movement from cover to cover

ENTEKI -- TARGET PRACTICE

This is the most neglected for of practice in the sport today. Many players to practice shooting at targets, but they simply aim at the closest target and hose. This gives them a better feeling, but does nothing to improve their skill. Shateki is as important as any other skill, and maybe more so. Regardless of your other talents, if you cannot hit what you are aiming at, what is the point?

There are two things you must strive for in your enteki

1. Seisha hitchu -- "true shooting, certain hitting". If your target practice is done properly, what you have taught your mind and body on the range will come automatically in the game.

2. Issha zetsumei -- "one shot, life ends". This term is taken from the Japanese martial art of Kyodo (way of the bow). It is always the archer's intention that every shot is their last.

All target practice must be done without a loader. Each ball to be fired must be loaded by hand. This will force you to take your time. You will not be shooting like this during a game, but it will teach you to slow down and concentrate during practice.

The human body is the most unstable shooting platform ever designed. As a sniper I was taught to always fire in a supported position. That is to say that the marker should be resting on or against something to help steady your aim. This is not always possible. You must train for the worst case scenario. This is standing up, unsupported.

Your targets should be at varying ranges. This helps you know where to aim at various ranges. The targets should be small, I like to use 9 inch aluminum pie pans for several reasons:

• They are the ideal size

• They make noise when you hit them

• They are easy to mount anywhere

• They are inexpensive

Some say that when you are shooting you should try to control your breathing somewhat. This is good if you are stationary the entire game, but in most cases you have been running around and your breathing is naturally heavier. So when you target shoot you should simulate this type of breathing by taking deep inhales and long exhales, but not so fast as to cause hyperventilation.

When you are breathing this way, you will see that your marker rises with an inhale and falls with an exhale. Line up on your target and allow the muzzle to rise above it when you inhale. When you exhale the muzzle will fall and line up on the target. As soon as the muzzle (or sight) lines up on the target, you fire.

Trigger control is also important. Many players "jerk" or "pull" the trigger. This causes the marker to move and you will invariably miss your shot. The idea is to slowly squeeze the trigger so that the marker firing is somewhat of a surprise. (Not so much of a surprise that it startles you!) To learn to squeeze the trigger, it is best to squeeze with all your fingers or with the entire hand. The trigger should be slowly squeezed in practice until you are familiar with the feeling. Eventually you will naturally squeeze the trigger.

Double triggers can be advantageous. Even on a stockgun. Believe it or not a double trigger will aid in squeezing due to the fact that you are using two fingers. The reason for this is simple, two fingers will squeeze at a more steady rate than one. I have experimented with this and have found that a double trigger is ideal for deliberate squeezing. I admit though that a double trigger on a stockgun does attract strange looks.